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    • Slide 3
    Back to Overview Silicone alternatives

    Light emollients

    Physical data


    Molecular polarity depends on the difference in electroneagtivity between atoms in a molecule and the asymmetry os the molecule’s structure.

    The polarity can be determined either from measuring th dipole moment oe the interfacial tension (IFT). The measured interfacial tension between water and the emollient is translated to polarity as follows:

    • Low polarity: IFT ≥ 35 mN/m
    • Medium polarity: 35 mN/m > IFT ≥ 25 mN/m
    • High polarity: 25 mN/m > IFT

    In W/O systems, the degree of polarity can be critical:

    • Investigations have shown that emollients of medium polarity give the best stability
    • Emollients can also be combined to give medium polarity in its mix


    In general, the polarity of emollients is important for stabilizing O/W emulsions.

    Spreading value in-vitro measurement

    Spreading is the property of an emollient film to spontaneously expand across a surface over time:

    • 5 μl of the emollient are applied onto a pretreated collagen foil
    • Image analysis is used to determine spreading area after 10 min
    • The values are then converted to equivalent in vivo values based on calibration curves derived from in vivo studies
    • These 6 emollients are classified as fast spreading emollients
    • These 6 emollients can deliver different light textures

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